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Before your horse can be taught to make lead changes accurately, he must be taught to move off your leg in a two-track situation at a walk, trot and canter. Once he will freely move off your leg by moving over, away from your leg pressure, not forward, increasing his speed, you should next move to a counter-canter exercise. Only when the horse is able to perform both of the exercises correctly is he ready to be taught how to properly make lead changes. When you first begin performing flying lead changes, outfit your horse in a martingale or draw reins with a snaffle to keep your horse from throwing his head and evading your cues. You should have your reins crossed in front of you so that you can maneuver your horse using both reins either independently or together.
Changing Ways Just before the point where the two circles cross, you'll need to signal your horse that a lead change will soon be required. Begin that signal by applying gentle leg pressure on your horse's left side. He will begin to move away from the pressure applied to his side. As you sit in the saddle, your right leg will be relaxed at your horse's side parallel with the girth, and your left leg will be slightly behind the girth, pressing into his body. Typically you should apply pressure just behind the girth area because this is where the horse is most responsive and gives you the most control of his body in preparation for the change. TIP: Depending on your horse's sensitivity, you may be able to move him away from your leg with only slight pressure from your calf muscle. If your horse is a little dead-sided, you may need to tap him harder with your heel and/or spur to generate a response. As you work with your horse on the two-track and counter-canter exercises above, you will become keenly aware of just how much pressure is needed to produce results. As your horse moves away from the pressure created by your left leg, make sure he is moving with his shoulder and hip together. If one is moving without the other your horse will not be able to make the lead change smoothly. It's also important to be aware of your body position. Your upper body should remain straight and your shoulders should be slightly back. Don't lean to the side or the front or back. Many riders think they can use their body and/or hips to throw th ehorse into the proper lead, but that method looks unattractive and can disrupt the horse's balance. Once the horse begins to move easily away from your leg, signal the actual lead change by pressing lightly tapping his right side with your leg. While you signal the lead change with your right leg, use your reins to push his shoulder to the left. This will tip the nose slightly to the left and encourage him to switch leads smoothly. Remember, stay light on the bit so you don't teach the horse to toss his head when he makes the lead change. This is one of the most difficult habits to break.
Troubleshooting
Problem: Your horse switches leads in front but not behind. Continued: If his body is in correct alignment and he still doesn't pick up the rear lead, you might not have signaled the lead change strongly enough. Next time, firmly cue your horse to switch leads by squeezing or tapping harder with your leg and/or foot. For example, if you are asking your horse to switch to the left lead, squeeze or tap harder with your right leg. If, after a few attempts, he still doesn't switch leads in the rear end, make him pivot in several quick circles to the left by placing your right leg firmly into his side.
Problem: When you signal for a lead change, your horse simply stiffens and continues in the new direction without switching leads. When this happens, you need to go back to the two-track maneuver to teach him exactly what your various leg cues mean. Then, it's up to you to remember to only send your horse one signal at a time to keep those gestures crystal clear.
Problem: When you signal the horse to switch leads he jumps away from your right leg, which is signaling the lead change.
Problem: When you ask your horse to switch leads, he kicks out or bucks. Don't punish the horse in the beginning. Just try to ignore his behavior. Be patient and clear in your cues as your horse works to figure out what you are asking and make sure he's conditioned enough to be able to do this balancing act with you on his back. However, if he continues to kick out during lead changes for a lengthy period of time, stop him and put him into a circle by putting your heel or spur into his side. This will let him know the behavior is unacceptable and it will encourage him to respond to your signals without protest. At this point it would be good to go back and work on the two-track maneuver as it will reinforce your leg commands and help your horse learn to accept them willingly. If he continues to kick out, this may be a symptom of a physical problem that creates pain when he tries to use his body this way. You may wish to have your veterinarian examine him.
Polishing Off
Meet Karen Qualls
TIP: Two-Track Maneuver
TIP: Counter-Canter |
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