Used Truck Judging 101

When I was an auto broker with AAA Auto Club, some of the members we helped buy vehicles for, would bring along a mobile mechanic to check out a used vehicle. That's a good idea, or take the used truck that you've narrowed down, to a trusted mechanic. The mechanic will have list of checks to know if the truck's drive train is sound along the engines computers and sensors. If you are an AAA member, they have a great service to certify mechanics that you can trust. Now get your creeper, flashlight, notepad and oil rag to have some fun on test-drives. And take long test-drives. Forget the short route with only right-hand turns that your salesperson was taught to take you on. It's your money, your time and your fun!

* Go on my website and get the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on the truck you're looking at. It will show the recalls and what modifications are sent to dealer service departments to fix known problems. Not all of it may pertain to your truck.

* Do a CarFax report on the truck. Some dealers are doing this now for you. You'll want to know if the truck has a clean title or salvage title. Also take the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number usually on the left base of the windshield) to a dealer for the brand of truck you are looking at and have the service department check the history with the brands national database. Then you will know if there are any open recalls or known problems. And they can tell you if there is any remaining factory warranty left. Don't assume if the truck has less than 36,000 miles that there is warranty left. Some factory buy-back lemons go to auction and back to a car lot with low miles and no warranty.

Checkout the all new 2003 Dodge 2500/3500.

* If you're looking at an automatic transmission, be sure to look for an external tranny cooler. No I'm not talking about the lines that go through the radiator, but a separate cooler in front of the radiator. If you are sure the truck didn't pull a trailer in a previous life, then you can ad an external tranny cooler if the rest of the truck checks out.

* With 0% interest on new trucks, like last fall and this summer and fall, more trade-ins are flooding the used auto lots. Expect more selection and lower prices on trucks this fall. The price you get for your trade-in will certainly be lower. It works both ways; don't forget to remind the salesperson of that.

* You've been told this for years, but it's still true. Sell your trade yourself for the most money. And it's easier to know where you are in the deal if you're just working with the numbers on one truck, not a truck and a trade-in.Ê In Colorado your sales tax is figured on the difference between your trade and what you are buying, except on a lease. Don't forget to take your trade-in times your tax area and ad that to what you are getting for your trade or asking for your trade if you sell it yourself to see the whole picture.

* If the VIN checks out and the service records show the truck is clean, bring your creeper and roll underneath and look for abnormalities in the frame and look for evidence of being used off-road a lot. You know, the caked in clay inside the frame channel and bent steel brake lines and rusted shocks. Make sure the differentials, transfer case, engine and transmission aren't leaking. If you have remaining factory warranty, what you find will be fixed, but if there are a lot of things wrong it will cost you too much time. Check the gaskets around the driver door, the threshold and the carpet to see if the wear matches the miles on the odometer. Check the paint for over spray by the door hinges, hood hinges and where the fenders meet the liner.

Try each gear including reverse with the brake on to see how fast it engages each gear and how much play, (roll) it has. If it moves too much before you fill the axle move, you could have wear in the pinion gear or u-joints. If you hear too much noise in the tranny when you engage, then there is another problem. Once again if the truck has factory warranty, all these things can be fixed and you have peace of mind, I just don't want to see you with chronic problems. The mechanic can check how the tranny engages. And the normal stuff, seeing what comes out of the exhaust, water, oil or carbon monoxide. Checkout the 4x4, if a shift on the fly, check the button or dial, put in 4x4 hi with the hubs in auto and do the circle to see if it hops. This is what you want. Then stop the truck and put in 4x4 lo and drive slower in a circle. And if manual 4x4 do the same with the floor lever and the hubs engaged. The mechanic will have list of checks to know if the truck drive train is sound and checking computers and sensors. Some trucks have solid hubs, so they are always on and you just engage the transfer case with a lever or switch.

* Diesel engines in trucks will have 5 year or 100,000 mile warranty from the factory when new, so as I stated above, have the VIN checked with the same brand service department to see if there is any warranty left. On a diesel it's important to have the mechanic check the radiator fluid and maybe have it tested for metal and oil. And the other side, check the oil and see if any water in it. With diesels it's important the radiator fluid had a conditioner added at the right service interval. If the radiator fluid gets bad it can pit the sleeves and water jacket called cavitation.

* One way to look at buying a truck new or used is your future needs. Find the salesperson and dealership you trust and build a relationship. There are some good ones out there. The month I got out of the business, my oldest son rolled his truck and we had to go truck shopping. I had forgotten how hard it was. We started out going dealer to dealer, reading the paper, looking on the Internet and I just tagged along as dumb ole dad playing with my granddaughter. After my son and daughter-in-law got tired of the search and after changing their mind several times on which vehicle would work for them, they felt like most folks car shopping, frustrated! I got on the cell phone and called one of the veteran salespeople I bought from and trusted as an auto broker. I told him what they wanted and then we went and picked it up.

Of course I have the advantage, knowing the dealer cost of vehicles and who to trust. But the point I was trying to make to my kids was, you're going to buy a lot of vehicles over your lifetime. Find the salesperson and dealer you trust and build a relationship and send them your friends. You still need to do price research to keep everyone honest, and let me help you sort which truck is your best choice, but in the same areas of the country used and especially new, cost all the dealers very close to the same. I would think a positive relationship with a salesperson and dealer you trust would take some of the stress out of something you will do over and over again.

I had my first test drive in the new 2003 Dodge diesel last month. It's quiet and powerful; I was pealing rubber in third gear!

My first test drive of the new Cummins diesel

It was a short drive and more are coming, but it was fun! I squawked the tires in third gear with the 6-speed manual. The only way you can get the new High Output 5.9L is with the 6-speed manual but it's a $400 charge. Go figure. The Cummins diesel is a $5225 option and tow package $275. The H.O. diesel option produces 305 HP with 555 Torque. (The Good) It still sounds like a Dodge diesel, only quieter, which is a good. It's quiet enough to hear more turbo whistle.

The auto is available in the standard diesel but not the high output diesel. Both new diesels are high-pressure common rail injection. Just like before they detune the one with the auto tranny. So this tranny is the same as before. They haven't told us when a new tranny is coming out, just that they are working on it. The new frame is a boxed hydro-formed 4 piece. Dodge has replaced the Dana axles ... Click here for the rest of my review!

Next month I'll have the results of driving the new Ford diesel and transmission.