Well folks this go round I'll share about what is working for me with the long rope and how it pertains to the theory of rear end under front end across. I use a 22' by 5/8", yacht class rope. You gals might get along with 1/2" diameter better. I use a certain brand of rope that feels good to my hands, very strong and durable.
Whether you are putting a horse under saddle, trailer loading, halter breaking, or teaching an older horse some ground manners, following is the way I would start. If possible get in a round pen or small trap with blocked off corners. The round pen will help arc the horse's body making the process a little easier on you and your horse. Drive your horse off by applying pressure to the horses rear quarters. (see picture#1)
The moment the horse takes a true step forward with it's inside front foot, release all pressure from the lead and walk in cadence with your horse on a loose line.
Next, get in time with your horses feet. Watch the inside front leg. As it steps on the ground, take all the slack out of your long line. Hold firm, don't pull, don't jerk. Lift up if need be. This will place you in proper time with your horses footfall in-order to help balance it's weight as it rolls its rear end under. (see picture #3)
Continue to hold pressure on the lead line. The horse will start to roll it's rear end under. (see picture #4)
When your horse rolls it's rear end under, it will face up to you. Release all pressure, and give your horse a nice gesture and rub if possible. (see picture #5)
Now position yourself as to move to the horse off in the opposite direction. (see picture #6) The moment the front inside leg would take a true forward step, release all pressure, and once again walk in cadence with your horse.
If you are halter breaking, first accomplish being able to roll the rear end under and bring front end across in both directions. Then work your way up by the horse's side as you drive the horse. Progress by next walking in front of the horse. If the horse balks when you step in front of it's eye, step back just a little and apply pressure once again to the hind quarters. Continue by asking the horse to lead off from a stand still. If the horse won't lead off, break the hind quarters under, then lead off as you bring the front end back across. Teach your horse to lead by driving, dragging doesn't work for me. When drug off, the horse will learn to pull back against the pressure of the halter rather than give to it. Pulling back might not always show up while leading, but lord bless you if they are standing tied. There is a big difference between a horse that follows along behind and one that leads.
This exercise works best by recognizing the horse's foot fall at the walk. The horse's feet leave the ground at the walk in four separate beats.If you start the count with a front foot, the next foot in count is a rear foot on the diagonal. If your start your count with a rear foot the next foot in count is a front foot, on the same side. No matter where you start the count the feet leave the ground either rear to front or front to rear.
This is the jest of the theory. Your leading hand that has pressure on the halter is asking to the horse to step forward. The other hand is applying pressure to the rear quarters, suggesting forward movement. The horse starts moving body parts searching for relief of pressure because it's being driven off. You release pressure from the lead, the hind quarters, and start walking in cadence with the horse when the front foot takes a forward step. Next, as you apply pressure to the horse's face,(holding the lead line) to roll the rear end under, the horse starts searching for relief again. To find relief the horse starts moving body parts beginning with it's head, continuing to it's rear feet, because you have it's face under pressure with the lead and halter and will not release pressure until it rolls it's rear end under. After the horse rolls it's rear end under, you release pressure from the lead line and give a nice gesture to your horse.The release of pressure tells the horse it moved the right body part to escape the pressure of the lead and halter. By you being in time with the horse's feet enabled the horse to distribute its weight and pivot on the proper front leg, allowing the rear legs to work in natural sequence of the footfall. Finally as you move the front end back across in the opposite direction you are applying pressure once again. The horse starts moving body parts searching for relief of pressure as it's being driven off. You release pressure when the inside front foot takes a forward step as the horse drives off in the opposite direction. This once again let's the horse know it moved (took a true step forward) the correct body part.
Final thoughts. The timing of the long rope being used in time with the horses feet, helps the horse to separate in it's mind, the movements of it's rear end apart from its front end.There must be a release of pressure and dwell of time between rolling the rear end under, and bringing the front end back across, or you will only accomplish chasing your horse in circles. Be certain to honor your request of the horse moving forward by giving it a loose line as it takes a forward step with the front inside foot.
You now have a new tool to use. I hope you see it as another avenue of rear end under, front end across. Don't tell anyone, but this gives you a 22' round pen to use, wherever you go.
Until next time may the good Lord bless you, your family, and your livestock, and always remember "There is one bit that works on all horses, a bit of knowledge".
God bless, Pat
The rope and halter you see pictured are around 15 years old. If you would kindly visit my web site, I bet a person could find a few feet of it. All kidding aside, there is a difference in the feel and quality of rope, my life and health depend upon the ropes I use, they are my tools.
To get more tips from Pat Hooks, visit the HorseCity.com Store to order '101 Ranch Horse Tips':
horsecitystore.com.
